Hello hello! I almost didn’t post this make since it seems that everyone in the whole wide world has made a Sorbetto top at some point. But obviously not everyone has, and maybe there are even some people yet to discover that its a free pattern from Colette Patterns that you can download any time you like! Plus, of course, this ended up with its own little complications. Bias binding: I’m talking about you.
I really, really like the Anna Marie Horner Loominous collection (despite it’s pun-ny name) and I definitely am happy to have used it for this top. For anyone not familiar with the top, it’s a slightly flared vest that has a bias binding finish at the neck and armholes. Colette encourages you to make your own binding for this project, so it’s a nice intro to the dark art and one I wished at times I hadn’t bothered with! In the end though, I’m glad since it definitely looks much nicer with my homemade binding than it would have with shop-bought generic stuff.
The construction is straightforward, with just two pieces for the vest and then the pleat, which is the main design detail. I made a size 12, which I confess is slightly too small, but I’m a little behind on the old diet/toning up front. It’ll be perfect with another coupla pounds gone. I quite like the way it looks on the front and I thought I had pattern-matched at the sides rather successfully until I remembered about the dart, which threw the stripe off. You can kind of see that in the side-on picture below. Ah well, can’t say it bothers me too much. Oh, and I made a muslin and moved the bust darts down by an inch and in by an inch.
I definitely also have a bit of a swayback issue, which I’ve noticed in a couple of makes, so I’m going to have to start adjusting for that, really.
Anyway, the bias binding. So I’m pleased with the end result above, but it was a bit of a faff to get there. I tried first of all to make it with the continuous loop method. That is one confusing thing! I watched video tutorials and scrutinised photos, and I swear it’s like some magician’s sleight of hand. You do what with the what? After some time trying to get to grips with it, I gave in and used the normal piecing it together method.
I then tried using some bias tape makers to feed the material through. This is not as easy as I thought, or perhaps I’m making some basic idiotic mistake. But it didn’t exactly feed through nice and neatly. So I just ironed it in half. Then I followed the Colette instructions, which were to sew the right side of the bias to the wrong side of the shirt, fold over and sew on the right side. I could swear when I did this recently we sewed right side to right side to start off. So I proceeded to look up different sources of info for applying the tape and, of course, there are as many methods as there are stars in the sky. Suffice it to say that trying different methods resulted in me unpicking the neckline twice before I got it where I was happy. Attempt #1, above, ended up with the bias join right at the FRONT. The perfect place! The armholes went a lot more smoothly, but I must remember to practice a bit next time before I dive in, as unpicking that was NOT fun.
Anyway, overall, it’s a good pattern to learn a few things with and it does make quite a neat little vest. I still like the pleat feature and have seen lots of awesome hacks I might look into next time. I won’t be rushing to make this immediately, as I have lots of other things on my list, but will no doubt be back to it at some point
Au revoir for now!
7 thoughts on “New make: Sorbetto top in plaid”
Do you mean you made the darts 1″ bigger? I’m a DD as well, and would love more details on how you did, what sounds like, a cheater FBA! Thanks.
Hi Nancy! I’m afraid it wasn’t really an FBA – I haven’t done one of those yet myself, but if and when I do, I’ll probably have some questions for you. 😉 Basically I lowered the dart by one inch and then shortened it by an inch, so that the tip wasn’t so far towards the bust apex. I was told by a teacher that darts on fuller busts often look and work better when they’re shortened a bit (and lowered if needed). I must say I agree – they definitely follow the bust curve more nicely, but it doesn’t really affect the room/sizing in any way. Even though I’m a DD, I’m fairly in proportion according to pattern sizing (by that I mean I still have a fair bit of tummy weight to lose, so I think that’s why I haven’t needed an actual FBA yet. That day is nigh though I feel). Hope this is remotely helpful and thanks for commenting. 🙂
Great, summery top! Bias binding is a process, but it looks so much better than pre-made. I’m still learning too, but I find spray starch helps keep them folded
Haha, ain’t that the truth! It is definitely worth it though, I must agree with you. Thanks for the spray starch tip. I haven’t used any yet, but it seems like it would be a useful item! I shall investigate… do you just wash it out afterwards?
Yeah, it washes out just fine!
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Catching up with commenting here. About this lovely Sorbetto top — excellent work with this unusual plaid. Lovely top!
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Thank you, thank you! 😀