New trousers: Butterick B6178 OR it too culotte of time, but I finished them…

Yes, believe it or not, I have finally finished a pair of trousers this year. Woohoo! I actually finished them pretty much on schedule in September, but for a silvery hook and eye, which I could not. be. arsed. to sew on. But I finally have! And I’m pleased to say this was a very simple and satisfying sew, albeit not necessarily my most flattering sew. I can see why the Butterick B6178 pattern is so popular.

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I also now know why the editors on Project Runway are always saying how black is such a terrible colour to shoot. I’ve highlighted the black linen I used for the culottes a little and now they just look very wrinkly! Ah well. It’s a medium-weight linen and was very nice to sew with I must say.

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Now, let me reiterate that, as I mentioned in my A/W plans post, I decided to make these precisely because it’s a simple pattern and I felt I could practice a bit of fitting with them. There are only 4 pieces (front, back, pocket and waistband) and I was looking forward to casting my fledgling fitting eye over them with the razor intent of a sewing Miss Marple. I didn’t even make a muslin! I know! I have read though, that unless you’re making one in virtually the same fabric it’s pretty pointless for trousers, and my experiences so far have led me to agree.

B6178_a[1]I made View D, which is the simplest version, with waist darts and pockets, but no pleats. I was fully prepared for the crotch rise to be too short. I’ve had this problem all my life, no matter my size or shape. I just have a long crotch to waist measurement. So imagine my amazement when it turned out pretty much perfect. I have since read that many people find the crotch rise too large/long and have to shorten it, which explains the result, but to me at the time, it seemed like a piece of sorcery. Or possibly that I’d done something wrong again.

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No matter – I will not complain! I made these in the largest packet size, figuring that I could take them in a bit and they are a bit wide at the hip and thigh, if I’m honest. They’re also a little loose at the waist, but the beauty of them is that I can eat a very large lunch and still fit comfortably inside – even with a t-shirt tucked in! So I think I’m going to leave them as is. The pockets sit nice and flat at the hip, which can be a bit hit and miss sometimes, and the leg is wide enough to be mistaken for a skirt at 15 paces.

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Construction-wise, there’s not a ton to say. The instructions were pretty thorough for a Big 4 pattern, although I have to remind myself that they don’t tell you when to finish seams. I have to start thinking ahead a little for that and I really should be capable of that now. I need a big post-it: Finish seams! I did take some short cuts. The instructions ask you to slipstitch the waistband and handstitch the hem. While I have some appreciation for the benefits of this, I used my machine on what are effectively a wearable muslin pair of trousers.

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In the interests of 100% honesty, there’s another reason I didn’t and am not going to put much time into fitting adjustments. I had almost finished them and stuck my scissors right through one of the legs by mistake. I don’t really know how I did it, but I cut a decent size hole and that was SO annoying. It’s on the inner thigh, so not the end of the world, but I just wanted to finish them quickly after that.

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To sum up, I’m not really convinced this style suits me too much. I don’t have the daintiest ankles and it really is quite a wide leg. If my waist were back to its pre-baby measurements, it would probably look okay, but for now, not so much. Nevertheless, they’re very comfy and they are definitely going to get some wear in winter. As a fitting exercise, it didn’t work out quite as I anticipated because I didn’t really make any changes in the end! I guess this is a good thing in a way, but I was all psyched up to get stuck in. Not to worry, I’m sure it won’t be long before I get my chance. They’re also the type of trouser that looks better in movement than in a still picture, I think. If this style suits you, I’d say go for it. It’s a quick, easy sew and the drafting is good.

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Next, a new trouser type I think! On that note, make sure you check out the Sewcialists blog for the latest community challenge. It’s all about TNTs this quarter, which I could certainly do with, so do stop by if this sounds interesting to you! There are some great discussions going on there and on the IG page.

 

 

4 thoughts on “New trousers: Butterick B6178 OR it too culotte of time, but I finished them…

    1. Heh, heh, thanks – I couldn’t resist. I nearly apologized for it in the first paragraph, but then changed my mind. What’s a sewing blog without a few puns? Boring. That’s what it is. πŸ˜‰

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  1. Hi,
    I am currently sewing this pattern (view D) and I am relatively new to sewing. I have a quick question, my side seams don’t line up when I match them up at the notches, I am finding about a cm difference (if that makes sense?). Can you advise please?
    Thanks

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    1. Hello there! Do you mean if you match the side notches it’s too short at the top and long at the bottom? Or if you match at the top, the sides don’t match? Quite often the sides won’t match flat because the leg pieces are different widths – that’s intentional and it will work out in the end, but I’m not sure exactly which notches you mean. πŸ™‚

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