The #sewmystyle2018 make for April is the Tilly and the Buttons Marigold jumpsuit pattern. It’s a super-cute garment, but I knew fairly quickly that the shape wasn’t one for me. I’m open to trying new things, but I think this would have been a project I just wouldn’t have worn. To be honest, I’m a bit wary of jumpsuits in general – I don’t mind the practicalities of bathroom breaks like some people (I’m rather “resilient” in that arena – TMI?), but I think it can be hard to find a flattering style since there’s so much that can go wrong fit-wise. Nevertheless, I have seen a couple of patterns over the last couple of years I rather fancied as contenders for my own figure requirements, including the Itch to Stitch Anza jumpsuit and the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs.
However, the one that really caught my eye recently was the appropriately-named “Jumpsuit” from In the Folds. I liked the loose fit, the fairly simple but elegant shaping with the v-neck facing and especially the waist sash, which is exactly the sort of feature I need to give me a little shape. So simple, but a great touch! Even better, when I went to check it on the In the Folds website, I discovered it was a FREE pattern! Woohoo!
I love the fact I can dress it up or down as I showed a little in this post – the trainers ensemble is not so glamorous but will probably be used on a much more frequent basis day to day (although I might iron out the middle creases first if I’m not using the sash :)). The only design feature I feel is missing is a pair of pockets and I wish I’d thought of it sooner, because it would have been so easy to add a pair in the side seam. Next time!
I listened to the Love to Sew podcast recently featuring In The Folds owner and designer Emily and remembered that, as well as designing her own patterns, she has a collaboration with Peppermint magazine. All the patterns she designs with them are available on her/their site for free! There are some great patterns there, including a sweater dress (yep, called “Sweater Dress”) that is exactly what I was looking for about 2 months ago.
Anyway, I printed out the pdf and put it together and it was actually rather painless, considering it was for a massive jumpsuit. There aren’t many pieces and they are nicely labelled. The jumpsuit is most fitted around the bust and shoulders and very loose around the waist and hips, so I traced off a Size F, which corresponded to my high bust measurement (40″), with the intention of doing a full bust adjustment. The bust darts for this jumpsuit are placed high on the armhole and I was a bit puzzled as to how to actually go about making an FBA on this pattern piece. I looked up lots of books and (it seemed like) much of the internet, but couldn’t really find exactly what I was looking for.
I decided in the end to create a second bust dart in the bodice around where one would “normally” expect to see one – i.e. a bit further down – and separate the jumpsuit at waist level to do the adjustment. Once I’d finished adding the 1.5″ ease, I taped the top and bottom back together and smoothed out the side seam line as well as truing the bust dart side seam. At least that was the plan. I feel now like I should have emailed Emily and asked her advice, but I cobbled it all together somehow. In the end, it actually magically worked out rather well. I was extremely worried I would end up with some weird puckered shape between the two darts and I think next time I would remove the upper dart and simply use the lower bust dart to avoid any chance of that happening
Construction entailed sewing the dart(s) and some staystitching before putting the larger pieces together. Fairly swiftly, you’re onto inserting the invisible zip in the back and then getting the all-in-one facing into the garment. This is the trickiest part of construction conceptually, but I thought the instructions and illustrations were excellent here and I really didn’t have too many problems. It did help that I’ve put in a few yokes using the burrito method as this was very similar.
I used a green linen that I purchased at Joann Fabrics for a song. I was very admiring of an orange/rust-coloured version I saw on Instagram made by @carolyn.lm and had been looking for something along those lines, but when I held a similar shade up to my face, it just wasn’t flattering. I bought some anyway, for a skirt or other lower garment, but the green, which is somewhere between olive and grass green was a much better shade for me. It’s not the finest linen in the world, but it’s perfect for a garment type I’ve never made before, in what is effectively a wearable muslin.
I’ve heard sewists talking about the details in garments from In the Folds, be they Emily’s own patterns or the collaborative ventures. While making this, I definitely got a sense of the thought that had gone into some of the features. Despite the fact it’s ostensibly a simple shape fit-wise, the fact that you can easily undo the back zip with one hand – and I am NOT a flexible person – was very well conceived. I think the proportions are excellent and really make for a versatile garment. There is plenty of seam allowance to allow for adjustments and, as I mentioned, the facing is really very nice. I also like the fact she tells you when to finish edges – useful for the beginner!
There are really only a few tiny adjustments I would make next time apart from adding pockets: I feel a very slight strain in the length when I’m bending and I think I probably need just a half-inch or so added to the hip length. As I’ve mentioned before, I am quite long-hipped and this would probably do the trick. I’d get rid of the high bust dart I think and I might make the front neckline a slightly deeper V as I do like it a little deeper with a décolletage like mine…
I wasn’t entirely happy with my finishing on the back around the zip area and I will try and do it a little better next time. I feel like it’s the sort of thing I want to get better at next – finishing things neatly and cleanly. I still often get a raggedy finish or pucker here or there and I’d like to eliminate them. Sewing dreamssss…. Altogether though, I am surprised and delighted that a non-muslined jumpsuit fits me this well and heartily recommend the pattern. If you like the look of it, I urge you to give it a try.