New make: In The Folds jumpsuit for #sewmystyle April

The #sewmystyle2018 make for April is the Tilly and the Buttons Marigold jumpsuit pattern. It’s a super-cute garment, but I knew fairly quickly that the shape wasn’t one for me. I’m open to trying new things, but I think this would have been a project I just wouldn’t have worn. To be honest, I’m a bit wary of jumpsuits in general – I don’t mind the practicalities of bathroom breaks like some people (I’m rather “resilient” in that arena – TMI?), but I think it can be hard to find a flattering style since there’s so much that can go wrong fit-wise. Nevertheless, I have seen a couple of patterns over the last couple of years I rather fancied as contenders for my own figure requirements, including the Itch to Stitch Anza jumpsuit and the Sew House Seven Burnside Bibs.

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However, the one that really caught my eye recently was the appropriately-named “Jumpsuit” from In the Folds. I liked the loose fit, the fairly simple but elegant shaping with the v-neck facing and especially the waist sash, which is exactly the sort of feature I need to give me a little shape. So simple, but a great touch! Even better, when I went to check it on the In the Folds website, I discovered it was a FREE pattern! Woohoo!

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I love the fact I can dress it up or down as I showed a little in this post – the trainers ensemble is not so glamorous but will probably be used on a much more frequent basis day to day (although I might iron out the middle creases first if I’m not using the sash :)). The only design feature I feel is missing is a pair of pockets and I wish I’d thought of it sooner, because it would have been so easy to add a pair in the side seam. Next time!

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I listened to the Love to Sew podcast recently featuring In The Folds owner and designer Emily and remembered that, as well as designing her own patterns, she has a collaboration with Peppermint magazine. All the patterns she designs with them are available on her/their site for free! There are some great patterns there, including a sweater dress (yep, called “Sweater Dress”) that is exactly what I was looking for about 2 months ago.

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Anyway, I printed out the pdf and put it together and it was actually rather painless, considering it was for a massive jumpsuit. There aren’t many pieces and they are nicely labelled. The jumpsuit is most fitted around the bust and shoulders and very loose around the waist and hips, so I traced off a Size F, which corresponded to my high bust measurement (40″), with the intention of doing a full bust adjustment. The bust darts for this jumpsuit are placed high on the armhole and I was a bit puzzled as to how to actually go about making an FBA on this pattern piece. I looked up lots of books and (it seemed like) much of the internet, but couldn’t really find exactly what I was looking for.

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I decided in the end to create a second bust dart in the bodice around where one would “normally” expect to see one – i.e. a bit further down – and separate the jumpsuit at waist level to do the adjustment. Once I’d finished adding the 1.5″ ease, I taped the top and bottom back together and smoothed out the side seam line as well as truing the bust dart side seam. At least that was the plan. I feel now like I should have emailed Emily and asked her advice, but I cobbled it all together somehow. In the end, it actually magically worked out rather well. I was extremely worried I would end up with some weird puckered shape between the two darts and I think next time I would remove the upper dart and simply use the lower bust dart to avoid any chance of that happening

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Construction entailed sewing the dart(s) and some staystitching before putting the larger pieces together. Fairly swiftly, you’re onto inserting the invisible zip in the back and then getting the all-in-one facing into the garment. This is the trickiest part of construction conceptually, but I thought the instructions and illustrations were excellent here and I really didn’t have too manyΒ  problems. It did help that I’ve put in a few yokes using the burrito method as this was very similar.

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I used a green linen that I purchased at Joann Fabrics for a song. I was very admiring of an orange/rust-coloured version I saw on Instagram made by @carolyn.lm and had been looking for something along those lines, but when I held a similar shade up to my face, it just wasn’t flattering. I bought some anyway, for a skirt or other lower garment, but the green, which is somewhere between olive and grass green was a much better shade for me. It’s not the finest linen in the world, but it’s perfect for a garment type I’ve never made before, in what is effectively a wearable muslin.

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I’ve heard sewists talking about the details in garments from In the Folds, be they Emily’s own patterns or the collaborative ventures. While making this, I definitely got a sense of the thought that had gone into some of the features. Despite the fact it’s ostensibly a simple shape fit-wise, the fact that you can easily undo the back zip with one hand – and I am NOT a flexible person – was very well conceived. I think the proportions are excellent and really make for a versatile garment. There is plenty of seam allowance to allow for adjustments and, as I mentioned, the facing is really very nice. I also like the fact she tells you when to finish edges – useful for the beginner!

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There are really only a few tiny adjustments I would make next time apart from adding pockets: I feel a very slight strain in the length when I’m bending and I think I probably need just a half-inch or so added to the hip length. As I’ve mentioned before, I am quite long-hipped and this would probably do the trick. I’d get rid of the high bust dart I think and I might make the front neckline a slightly deeper V as I do like it a little deeper with a dΓ©colletage like mine…

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I wasn’t entirely happy with my finishing on the back around the zip area and I will try and do it a little better next time. I feel like it’s the sort of thing I want to get better at next – finishing things neatly and cleanly. I still often get a raggedy finish or pucker here or there and I’d like to eliminate them. Sewing dreamssss…. Altogether though, I am surprised and delighted that a non-muslined jumpsuit fits me this well and heartily recommend the pattern. If you like the look of it, I urge you to give it a try.

15 thoughts on “New make: In The Folds jumpsuit for #sewmystyle April

    1. Thanks so much! I can relate to being terrified of jumpsuits! πŸ™‚ Happy to tell you more about the zipper – was there something in particular? It’s basically just a simple invisible zip that you sew into the centre back seam fairly early on. The facing is then attached and finished around the zipper. The only thing that was a bit confusing was that the requirements were for a 50cm or 14-in zipper, which are two quite different lengths. I went for the 14-inch and I can get out and in very easily, so I don’t think a 50cm zipper is necessary. Let me know if there’s anything else I can answer!

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      1. Aha – I see. πŸ™‚ Well, because the back neckline is a fairly deep V, I can reach the top of the zipper pretty easily just reaching back with one arm, which I guess was intentional? I used the 14-inch zipper (I honestly don’t think it even needs to be this long as it’s baggy) and so I can pull it up and down fine without giving myself a shoulder sprain, haha. Believe me, I am in dire need of some yoga.

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  1. I love your jumpsuit! It’s a style I avoid as well – getting that fit right is intimidating since I’m tall (5’8″) and short waisted, long legs, flat bottom…I just can’t imagine it being the most flattering but I really like the styling of this one! I always do an FBA and do 2 darts rather than one and often do put the second dart into the armhole since I don’t care for one BIG dart and find this gives me a much better fit besides. You could do an fba with an armhole dart treating it exactly the same as a side dart – cutting down the middle of the dart to the bust point – doing your fba which would simply widen your dart but I think adding a second dart WAS the right solution! I have a question about your all-in-one facing, zip down the back and front seam…I’m doing exactly this right now with the Farrow Dress by Grainline which didn’t include either but I like the finish of an all-in-one for sleeveless and I prefer a zipper to a just closing it with a button at the back….Did you do the zipper first before sewing in the facing and pull it through the front? Or did you do the facing first then the zipper?

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    1. Thanks so much Kathleen! Yes, I totally agree about jumpsuits, which is why I particularly avoid those with a horizontal waist seam – lots seem to have elasticated waists. One of the forgiving things about this design is that bagginess and lack of horizontal seam. It means you can effectively decide your waist point using the sash, which makes it much more adaptable to my figure at least!

      Thank you for reassuring me about the bust darts. I really wasn’t sure what the “best” course of action was, so I’m relieved to hear it wasn’t totally nuts! πŸ˜€ I also appreciate the info on the armhole dart (and now I know what the proper names for those darts are!).

      With this pattern, the zipper is put in first, and the facing attached afterwards, yep. The zipper was easy enough to pull through the “burrito” when securing the armholes. The only part I found tricky was finishing the facing around the sides of the zipper right at the end. I thought it looked a little messy, so will try and do it better next time.

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      1. So your zipper is a separating one? My zipper doesn’t go to the bottom of the dress so I don’t think I could pull it through – I think I’ll still have to do the all-in-one facing first – pull it through then do the zipper…sheesh figuring out the right order when you change something is enough to drive one crazy :))

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      2. Hmm, nope, mine is a regular zipper and doesn’t reach the bottom of my garment. I’m not sure how to explain it since I’m just following the instructions most of the time and not really knowing exactly what I’m doing. πŸ™‚ If you go to the link, the instructions are there to download for free, so that might help? They’re very good!

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  2. I love how you have styled it, and I may give it a try! Is it the rayon/linen from JoAnns? I have some of the orange, although an orange jumpsuit may not be the best idea!

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    1. Yes, I think it is that linen! I almost did the facing in something else as I was worried it would be a little rough on the skin at first, but it’s actually fine! And I guess it will soften further as I wash it. Lol! I suppose that’s true – the baggy version in orange could get some worried looks, haha. In all seriousness, I’ve seen some amazing orange versions and I think it would look great! Check the IG version I posted above – hers is in an orange type fabric and looks amazing.

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  3. I love that you are widening out in your fashion choices! That is so inspirational!!! I never would have looked twice at this pattern, but I do like In the Folds directions and patterns! Thank you for all your input regarding the fit of this jumper! That is “need to know” info! It looks lovely in linen and I’m sure you will find it a comfortable summer piece! ❀

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    1. Thanks so much! It’s one of the good things about those challenges like #sewmystyle. I would never have gotten around to a jumpsuit either. And when I saw that version I posted the link to in the post, that made me think… hmmm… maybe… It is soooo comfy – you’re right! I actually just today saw a girl who had made two versions – one in pink linen and one in white – and they look amazing.

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