That’s a lot of alliteration! I guess Papercut Patterns must have realized this when they came up with the name. I bought this pattern when the collection first came out as they reminded me a little of the Named Alexandria pants, which I loved and have been wearing tons since I made them (hence the second pair at the end of this post).
I have quite a few Papercut patterns in my stash as I very much like their style, but haven’t actually made too many of them yet. In fact I think I’ve only used the Anima pants pattern for my mother, and the Kyoto tee for myself, which I adored. Another pattern that’s on the “I REALLY must make another” TNT list. Oh yes. Anyway, this pair of pants has everything I was after for a comfortable spring wardrobe staple: an elasticated back for some comfort, but a flat front for shape, interesting details, such as the pocket shape, the front leg centre seam and, overall, a style that’s somewhere between casual and more formal, thanks to details like the faux fly.
As I posted a while back, these are part of a spring/summer capsule wardrobe I’m trying to make, so I decided that I needed the Palisades, as well as another pair of Alexandrias, in some shade of blue or grey to make sure they coordinated with a decent number of the other garments. I happened to be in Joann looking for some thread and noticed this blue stretch twill, as well as a dark blue bengaline. I don’t buy fabric from Joann very often these days, but the twill seemed pretty nice – and then I noticed they had 60% off sportswear fabrics. I couldn’t not really with that kind of savings enticement – so I got enough of both for a pair of pants each for $20 or something. Bargain.
I decided to make the largest size in the Palisades – XL – but I would size down to L next time, which is my main comment about these trousers – as you can see they’re pretty roomy. There is a little stretch in the twill to be fair, but I think even in another fabric the L would be a better fit. Having said that, these are still very wearable – I might just try and take the waist in a little (no, I won’t – who am I kidding) and I feel like they have a real “all-American sportswear” feel in the powder blue. That might just be the perception coming from a non-American, but I’m not sure. What do you think? 1940s golfer anyone?
I’ve read a few reviews of various Papercut patterns where the sewists felt the construction and/or instructions were a little confusing, so I was prepared for a little guesswork, but I must say I thought the Palisade construction was super-straightforward and the instructions very good indeed. It’s quite a simple project, so a beginner shouldn’t have any problems I don’t think.
I was considering not using interfacing because the twill has some thickness, but it also has a modicum of stretch, so in the end I figured the interfacing was probably useful in keeping those parts stable, which is, after all the point. And, now that I’ve made them, I think I made the right decision. Oh yes, and this twill crushes like a bugger too, so I’m doubly glad I did that. I don’t care really, but you can see how quickly it wrinkles from the picture above.
The pockets were fun to put together and I thought the waistband construction was really neat, with just a short flat front. I ended up with a very tidy pair of trousers, both inside and out, so no complaints here. All, in all, a pleasing project, particularly since I made it straight from the packet. I’d really only make a few tiny little tweaks next time.
As I mentioned at the top, I also made a second pair of Named Alexandria pants. My first time I used a cotton lawn as a kind of wearable muslin and this time I picked up some bengaline from Joann. I am a little heavier than when I made these last year, but the bengaline has some stretch, so I figured I’d roll with the same pattern pieces. Unfortunately, the stretch on the bengaline went the opposite way to most stretch fabrics and I managed to cut the pattern out with the stretch going up and down, which is no use to man nor beast!
Therefore, this pair is slightly tight around the hips/tummy region, but I still really like them. I did make a few tweaks from last time: added an inch back in length and doubled the width of the waistband and it worked out well. All in all, they’ll get lots of wear – they go with tons of items in my wardrobe and that was the idea!
And that’s about it for this post! Another great pattern to add to my trousers repertoire and a new pair of favourite TNT Alexandrias. I’ll be back soon with my first project (finally) from the Breaking the Pattern book. Can you guess which one I’m making? I should finish up very soon and I can’t wait to see how it turns out.