New trousers: Papercut Patterns Palisade pants and repeat Alexandrias

That’s a lot of alliteration! I guess Papercut Patterns must have realized this when they came up with the name. I bought this pattern when the collection first came out as they reminded me a little of the Named Alexandria pants, which I loved and have been wearing tons since I made them (hence the second pair at the end of this post).

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I have quite a few Papercut patterns in my stash as I very much like their style, but haven’t actually made too many of them yet. In fact I think I’ve only used the Anima pants pattern for my mother, and the Kyoto tee for myself, which I adored. Another pattern that’s on the “I REALLY must make another” TNT list. Oh yes. Anyway, this pair of pants has everything I was after for a comfortable spring wardrobe staple: an elasticated back for some comfort, but a flat front for shape, interesting details, such as the pocket shape, the front leg centre seam and, overall, a style that’s somewhere between casual and more formal, thanks to details like the faux fly.

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As I posted a while back, these are part of a spring/summer capsule wardrobe I’m trying to make, so I decided that I needed the Palisades, as well as another pair of Alexandrias, in some shade of blue or grey to make sure they coordinated with a decent number of the other garments. I happened to be in Joann looking for some thread and noticed this blue stretch twill, as well as a dark blue bengaline. I don’t buy fabric from Joann very often these days, but the twill seemed pretty nice – and then I noticed they had 60% off sportswear fabrics. I couldn’t not really with that kind of savings enticement – so I got enough of both for a pair of pants each for $20 or something. Bargain.

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I decided to make the largest size in the Palisades – XL – but I would size down to L next time, which is my main comment about these trousers – as you can see they’re pretty roomy. There is a little stretch in the twill to be fair, but I think even in another fabric the L would be a better fit. Having said that, these are still very wearable – I might just try and take the waist in a little (no, I won’t – who am I kidding) and I feel like they have a real “all-American sportswear” feel in the powder blue. That might just be the perception coming from a non-American, but I’m not sure. What do you think? 1940s golfer anyone?

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I’ve read a few reviews of various Papercut patterns where the sewists felt the construction and/or instructions were a little confusing, so I was prepared for a little guesswork, but I must say I thought the Palisade construction was super-straightforward and the instructions very good indeed. It’s quite a simple project, so a beginner shouldn’t have any problems I don’t think.

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I was considering not using interfacing because the twill has some thickness, but it also has a modicum of stretch, so in the end I figured the interfacing was probably useful in keeping those parts stable, which is, after all the point. And, now that I’ve made them, I think I made the right decision. Oh yes, and this twill crushes like a bugger too, so I’m doubly glad I did that. I don’t care really, but you can see how quickly it wrinkles from the picture above.

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I wore them during Me Made May with my Perkins shirt too!

The pockets were fun to put together and I thought the waistband construction was really neat, with just a short flat front. I ended up with a very tidy pair of trousers, both inside and out, so no complaints here. All, in all, a pleasing project, particularly since I made it straight from the packet. I’d really only make a few tiny little tweaks next time.

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As I mentioned at the top, I also made a second pair of Named Alexandria pants. My first time I used a cotton lawn as a kind of wearable muslin and this time I picked up some bengaline from Joann. I am a little heavier than when I made these last year, but the bengaline has some stretch, so I figured I’d roll with the same pattern pieces. Unfortunately, the stretch on the bengaline went the opposite way to most stretch fabrics and I managed to cut the pattern out with the stretch going up and down, which is no use to man nor beast!

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Therefore, this pair is slightly tight around the hips/tummy region, but I still really like them. I did make a few tweaks from last time: added an inch back in length and doubled the width of the waistband and it worked out well. All in all, they’ll get lots of wear – they go with tons of items in my wardrobe and that was the idea!

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And that’s about it for this post! Another great pattern to add to my trousers repertoire and a new pair of favourite TNT Alexandrias. I’ll be back soon with my first project (finally) from the Breaking the Pattern book. Can you guess which one I’m making? I should finish up very soon and I can’t wait to see how it turns out.

10 thoughts on “New trousers: Papercut Patterns Palisade pants and repeat Alexandrias

  1. I love the pockets on the Papercut Pattern. I want to try these but I am so short and have difficulty with getting pants to fit. I do like the fabric you used.

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    1. The pockets are such a great detail. I guess since this is a casual style, you would probably have a lot more ease and give to play with, but I do empathise. Trousers are so hard!

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  2. Nice! I really love the Alexandria trousers especially but I think I’m basically totally brainwashed into the cult of Named.

    Do you have their book? I haven’t posted any sewing-related content in ages but am slowly trying to get things photographed. And while I haven’t been sewing as much anymore I have found myself slowly making my way through “Breaking the Pattern” (two patterns tried out so far, one in two variations, and all in multiples…).

    I need to get back into pants sewing at some point (hm, maybe those jeans from the book?). I’m very impressed with the pants you’ve been making!

    I love your recently made shirts, too, by the way 🙂

    Liked by 1 person

    1. Haha – yes, I recall your Named obsession. But there are certainly worse ones to have – and particularly if your makes all look like that dress you posted today. What a beauty!

      Yes indeedy, I preordered the book, so even had it before the official publishing date thanks to good ol Amazon. Even so, I have only recently cut out my first pattern from it as I had a bunch of other things in my queue. I am making the sleeveless ruffled Saraste top in one of the last Cotton and Steel rayons – it’s called Love Flower or something and is predominantly red. I’m quite excited about it – I love the fabric! The Alexandrias also fit me pretty much straight from the pattern too, so I’m also a fan. I guess I’ve made those and the Kielo dress a couple of times now, but there are definitely lots of delectable patterns in that book.

      Which other pattern did you try?

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      1. I haven’t made the Saraste top yet, but I want to. And now I’ll be waiting for yours!

        I’ve made the Kaste, which you saw on IG, and two different versions of the Ruska pattern — the high-neck dress shortened to a top (three times) and the t-shirt version (sans center front seam, eight so far, I think, but no photos yet!).

        I’d like to give the jeans a try and I’m eyeing some fabric I bought a while back for possibly yet another Kaste dress. My plan for the summer is to sew as much of the “precious” fabrics as I reasonably can. I’m feeling more confident about it because I feel like I’ve found some silhouettes and patterns that I not only like but end up wearing… That should be a blog post, but we’ll see if that happens 😉

        Anyway, I’m excited for more of your summer sewing! You killed it during Me-Made May!

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    1. Oh thank you so much for commenting! I love it when people do and am constantly reminding myself to do so on other blogs, because it’s so nice to chat with other sewing people. I read blogs through Bloglovin which doesn’t always make it too easy to leave comments and I have the worst memory, so I invariably forget to go back and find the original blog. Bad excuse, I know. Anyway! This was definitely one of my favourite outfits from Me-Made May (I look super annoyed but I had a camera timer on and it caught me like that, lol). I have heard Tan from Queer Eye talk about the French Tuck so much, I thought I’d try it – and I like it! It’s rather slimming I must say, which is an illusion I can go with, heh. What are you making right now?

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      1. Yes, I hear on you on liking the comments, however I just started sewing, I don’t know how much I can add to them, haha. Currently working on some Lander Pants. Yes it really is a great outfit to feel good in! I had to Google Queer Eye, as I’m without Netflix and in Europe (and in general, living under a rock). Thanks for the introduction!

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