Tag handmade clothes

New dress: Wiksten shift in Nani Iro Kokka double gauze

bellecitadel 12 Comments

The Wiksten shift is a pattern that has been super-popular this year. When I first saw it, I was definitely like, “Meh”, because , as mentioned in previous posts, the boxy shift silhouette has never been part of my repertoire, owing to a curvy figure that needs some definition. However, my feelings started to change when I saw my friend Melizza (@melizzamakes), who tested the garment for Jenny Wiksten, fashion not just one, but multiple gorgeous versions. Still, I thought, maybe it just looks amazing on Melizza (which would certainly not be out of the question). Then I saw other versions pop up – on all shapes and sizes – and, I kid you not, EVERYBODY – and I really mean everybody – looks fantastic in this dress. Check out #wikstenshiftdress on Instagram and see for yourself.

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There’s something about the proportions of the dress: the neckline and sleeves, versus the length and width; I can’t say what exactly, but Jenny Wiksten got this draft bang on. I reached tipping point sometime in June and went from being indifferent to this pattern to being practically desperate to make one overnight. I had a few other garments in my queue to finish first, but browsed through my stash and, because this shape is such a vehicle for showing off a fabric, had literally dozens of suitable pieces I wanted to use. Continue reading “New dress: Wiksten shift in Nani Iro Kokka double gauze” →

New dresses: Two helpings of Gelato by Liesl + Co.

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Do you recognise this fabric? When the Colette Penny dress was released almost exactly two years ago, I, and a million other sewists, gasped in amazement at this glorious Lady McElroy print they used in the sample and it promptly sold out everywhere. I managed to grab a few yards from the Fabric Godmother and it has been sitting waiting patiently in my stash every since. As soon as I thought of it for the Gelato dress, I knew it was perfect and got to cutting. Funnily enough, I’ve seen it spring up in a couple of garments just this week on Instagram and Cashmerette appears to be selling it in a kit, so I didn’t know if it was reprinted or what, but boy, am I glad I used it for this garment – it’s a perfect display piece. Continue reading “New dresses: Two helpings of Gelato by Liesl + Co.” →

New menswear: Sinclair Patterns Tao raglan

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Did you know we’re now into the Menswear month at The Sewcialists blog? It’s one of the quarterly challenge months and you can interpret menswear any way you like by making a garment that fits the theme. I put together a post on some womenswear patterns that have menswear influences for the theme, but there are many, many other great posts to read. Take a look!

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So anyway, I actually made this for my husband at Christmas as he’d requested a standard long-sleeved raglan top as my next garment for him. I didn’t get to finish it off until late January and thought I’d save it until now because… well, menswear! I wasn’t familiar with Sinclair Patterns before I made this, but happened to spot the Tao pattern on Instagram and thought I might give it a shot. Continue reading “New menswear: Sinclair Patterns Tao raglan” →

New shorts: True Bias Lander shorts for #sewmystyle July

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A little flurry of blog posts before August hits us, but I wanted to sneak this one in as it’s the #sewmystyle project for July and this project was one of the ones I was most looking forward to in the challenge calendar. I eyed up the Lander trousers pattern when it was released, saw some of the lovely versions around, and so was pleased to see it make its appearance in this challenge list. I decided to make the shorts as a wearable muslin as I’d seen quite a lot of the same issues cropping up on the #sewmystyle page and was pretty sure some of them would apply to me.

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One thing I had noticed about the True Bias Landers, even months ago, was that lots of versions looked a little strained at the tummy, where the button fly is situated. The exposed button fly is quite a distinct design feature of the Landers, so I wondered whether it was just because it’s a button fly, if they were wrinkles after wearing them, or whether the ease was, in fact, a little skimpy in that area. As Lander examples started to come in on the #sewmystyle Facebook page, quite a number of people mentioned the need for full tummy adjustments, which led me to think it was maybe a drafting feature, rather than wear and tear, as it were. Continue reading “New shorts: True Bias Lander shorts for #sewmystyle July” →

New outfit: Simplicity 1072 pencil skirt and sweater

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Hello from the Californian desert! I’m on holiday with the family and visiting my father-in-law, who lives out in snake and scorpion territory. Very exciting! It was hard to get great light for these pics with all the holiday goings-on, but I managed to snap a few. And I’ve got to tell you it is so nice when you make something that you really like and know you are going to wear non-stop. I can usually find something to like in most of my makes, even if it’s just the learning process for some of them, but there’s nothing like using a pattern and thinking – aha! – that is my perfect t-shirt/skirt/shorts/crotchless bodysuit/whatever.

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New makes: Grainline Scout tee – a first fitting attempt

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Hello there! So after the success of the Alder shirtdress and Linden sweaters I had a rummage through Grainline Studio’s other patterns. I have the Morris blazer pattern already and fully intend to make it, but this time round the Scout tee caught my eye. Let me be honest: a boxy woven tee with no shaping would not be my natural ally. In fact, I’m really not the shape for Grainline patterns (or they’re not the right shape for me; take your pick), despite some successes. The resulting garments tend to be fairly rectangular with plenty of ease and are probably best suited to those with similar body shapes. It’s been a very popular silhouette in the indie pattern world.

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Discoveries of a novice: finishing knits with a twin needle

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Here’s a little technical post today. I don’t write these often because I’m a beginner and almost everything can be found fairly easily on the Internet these days. Now and again though, I come across something that took me a while to find or didn’t quite answer all my issues and hopefully what I’ve done will be useful for others. Today it’s the turn of… hemming knits with a twin needle! Woah! Grab your Moscow Mule and take a seat!

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The Issue aka Hemming Hell

Alright, so, in a nutshell, here was my problem. I had been using the twin needle to hem t-shirts and other knits, using many hints and tips I’d read in articles or books. The stitch seemed to work pretty well and looked okay, but, then, after just a few wears, the threads would snap. The first time I thought perhaps I was using the wrong type of thread on one of the spools or the incorrect width of needle, but it slowly happened to everything I had sewn. In addition, sometimes when I was sewing I could feel that one of the threads was a bit “tight” and was pulling a little, but couldn’t figure out what was wrong. Gah! Continue reading “Discoveries of a novice: finishing knits with a twin needle” →

New make/test: JLV Juniper Cardigan in tulips

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Happy Easter and welcome to a review of my first test! I was really excited to try testing a garment and had been looking around for a cardigan pattern for some time. Since then, a bunch of cardigan patterns have all appeared from nowhere, but at the time it seemed like providence when Jennifer Lauren put out a call for testing the Juniper cardigan. I leapt at the chance and was luckily accepted! For Easter we visited the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival here in Washington state and since Jennifer appears to use floral names a lot for patterns, it seemed an appropriate backdrop for this blog post.

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New make: Seamwork Sonya dress

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So I made a shift dress in linen. Not something I would have expected to put on my to-do list since a) I’ve always suited a more nipped-in garment, even when I was 19 and student-thin and b) have never been able to wear linen – I tried linen clothes many times when I was younger, but we just didn’t get on. And then there’s the grey. I chose this because I felt I hadn’t made anything grey forever and have since realised that almost every item of clothing I have been working on recently is, in fact, grey. I don’t know what’s up with my head but I definitely don’t need any more grey. Seattle is grey enough right now!

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New make: Brindille & Twig Free Hoodie

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I wrote a fair bit about the Colette Beignet skirt a few days ago and so, in contrast, this will be short and sweet. Finally I’ve made something else for the wee guy. We’ve had so many lovely gifts from friends and family of gorgeous clothes for Joe that he’s really only just starting to get to the point where it’s worth me making him some. I’ve had my eye on Brindille and Twig for quite some time. I very nearly bought a bunch of patterns in their most recent sale, but, due to the above, he just didn’t quite need anything at the time. Then I happened upon their free pattern – this hoodie – and thought, well, why not? He actually needed one.

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