New test: Nina Lee Mayfair dress

This is actually my first bona fide make of 2020, which is kind of crazy, but I zipped this little lady up in no time at all and I adore this dress! It’s a clever, elegant and flattering design. I saw Nina Lee put out a call for makers to test out her new extended range for the Mayfair dress (as well as a couple of other patterns) a month or two ago and signed up as I’ve been intrigued by other patterns of hers I’ve seen around and about. The Mayfair dress actually came out at the end of 2018 and there are some lovely versions around the internet already, such as this maxi version from Diary of a Chainstitcher and this one from Sew Dainty. The extended sizing will go up to size 28 (54″ bust) and will be out soon.

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Mayfair Dress Pattern

The Mayfair is a knit dress that comes in knee-length and maxi versions that has some really nice detailing on it, which is what made me take a closer look at it in the first place. It has an “all-in-one grown-on collar” which makes for some slightly more interesting pattern pieces than usual and results in some lovely pleats that meet at the back neckline and flow round and down either side of the front neckline. This effect is mirrored by a gathered central section at the waist and produces some lovely shaping. The attached long waist tie is clever, because it hides the gathers and allows you to shape the mid-section of the dress to your taste. There are three different sleeve lengths: full, 3/4 length and short sleeves.

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New dress: Wiksten shift in Nani Iro Kokka double gauze

The Wiksten shift is a pattern that has been super-popular this year. When I first saw it, I was definitely like, “Meh”, because , as mentioned in previous posts, the boxy shift silhouette has never been part of my repertoire, owing to a curvy figure that needs some definition. However, my feelings started to change when I saw my friend Melizza (@melizzamakes), who tested the garment for Jenny Wiksten, fashion not just one, but multiple gorgeous versions. Still, I thought, maybe it just looks amazing on Melizza (which would certainly not be out of the question). Then I saw other versions pop up – on all shapes and sizes – and, I kid you not, EVERYBODY – and I really mean everybody – looks fantastic in this dress. Check out #wikstenshiftdress on Instagram and see for yourself.

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There’s something about the proportions of the dress: the neckline and sleeves, versus the length and width; I can’t say what exactly, but Jenny Wiksten got this draft bang on. I reached tipping point sometime in June and went from being indifferent to this pattern to being practically desperate to make one overnight. I had a few other garments in my queue to finish first, but browsed through my stash and, because this shape is such a vehicle for showing off a fabric, had literally dozens of suitable pieces I wanted to use. Continue reading “New dress: Wiksten shift in Nani Iro Kokka double gauze”

New shirt: Ensemble Patterns Perkins blouse

I love patterns, but there aren’t many that make me buy them STRAIGHT AWAY. The day after, yes, or maybe even on launch day. But not immediately. I bought the Perkins shirt by Ensemble Patterns approximately 4 and a half minutes after viewing it on Instagram. I just loved the shape of the gathered sleeves and the yoke. I wasn’t too sure whether it was really for my shape, given that it was oversized with no waist shaping, but I didn’t really care.

There aren’t too many blog posts about this shirt that I’ve found. Anna from Noodlehead has made an electric blue version to die for and the rest of the examples I found were on Instagram. This is classed as an intermediate pattern and I think it deserves the classification, so I’ve made a few notes on construction, in case any beginners fancy taking it on and it helps.

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New jumpsuit: Deer and Doe Sirocco

As I’m sure you are not unaware, the new collection from Deer and Doe came out recently and the Sirocco jumpsuit immediately leapfrogged my other projects in the queue. There are three pieces in the collection, but, for me, this one stood out head and shoulders above the others as the one to make. Firstly, it’s a knit jumpsuit, which equals both comfort and somewhat less fitting – and I have plenty of other fitting-intensive projects going on. But also, I just love the balance between the flowy, pleated trousers and the structured shoulders. I’m going to New York this week for a few days and had been considering what in my wardrobe would take me from daytime sightseeing straight to nighttime eating and carousing – and this is the perfect garment.

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I LOVE it. Like, really love it. I’m a fairly “glass-half-full” kind of person and can see the positive in most of my projects, but it’s great when something comes along that really knocks my socks off. This jumpsuit is exactly what I hoped it might be and that doesn’t happen too often. Great drafting and just so me. Comfortable to wear, with modern clean lines, but also some structure thanks to the sleeves and pleats. Yes, I really do love it. Of course, black fabric is hard to photograph, but hopefully you can see the detail okay – I tried a few different locations. I also wore it with both heels and trainers – and let’s face it, I’m much more likely to be sporting the latter with a cardie over the top. It’s a versatile garment!

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New trousers: Alexandria peg leg pants from Named

The new Design Your Wardrobe has started and I’m planning to take part again and try to come up with a few A/W outfits. In the meantime, I haven’t quite finished my original S/S collection and this is one of the main takeaways from the first time round: I was a little ambitious! 🙂 I came up with ideas for 6 different outfits and I think 3 would probably be a better number, given the way my plans change and other garments crop up over the weeks.

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I’m trying to finish off the last few items for the first collection, give or take a couple of small garments, as most of them are still relevant to be honest. Now that I look back on what I came up with, it’s really more of a spring/autumn wardrobe than a summer one – and that is also a useful revelation! Continue reading “New trousers: Alexandria peg leg pants from Named”